Coffee in the New Millennium: Will the Flavor of Geisha Change Everything?

By Hanna Neuschwander

The author descends a trail in the foothills of the Baru Volcano in western Panama. John Mayer

FROM THE NARROW ROADS that wind along the steep eastern flanks of the Baru Volcano in the Boquete district of western Panama, nearly every switchback reveals a view of fat, leafy coffee shrubs undulating in the breeze. The long rows, with their strips of shadow…