Down East Fish Chowder
By Nancy Harmon Jenkins
Fish chowder tastes best if you start with a whole haddock, weighing about four pounds, so you can make a fish broth or court bouillon to deepen the flavor. It’s easy. Ask the fishmonger to filet it for you and to skin the filets. Then put the head, bones, and skin (which has a lot of gelatin to give richness to the broth) in a pot — no gill…