Once a common street food, farinata is a vast chickpea pancake, soft and floppy, baked in special heavy copper pans about a yard wide; you eat pieces with your fingers. Farinata is mainly Ligurian, but it’s made on a long stretch of the Mediterranean coast from Nice, where the name is socca, through Liguria, where in dialect it’s called fainâ, into neig…
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