MOST OF THE SUCCESS OF any pie or tart lies in its crisp, flavorful crust. A sandy-textured, cookielike crust can be good, whether the softer kind often known by its French name, pâte sablée (“sandy dough”), or the firmer, more sugary, less buttery kind, which stays crisp longer and in French is called pâte sucrée (“sugary dough”). Compared with either …
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