Le Pâté en Croûte: to Make a Dry Pâté Would Be a Charcutier’s Greatest Fault

By Guélia Pevzner

AMONG THE ABUNDANCE IN the display case of a French charcuterie, look for it in large ceramic plates and among the little farcis in their baskets. There it is, enthroned, a majestic construction, like a great flagship. Its golden crust is covered with designs in pastry, and a slice reveals the mosaic of the stuffing. “Some pâté?” the charcutier proudly …