To Understand the Differences in Olive Oil, Taste During the Harvest

By Nancy Harmon Jenkins

IN MID-OCTOBER THE OLIVES on my trees here in Tuscany should have been showing signs of color and starting to swell with oil. But two harvests ago, throughout the Mediterranean, the fall had been unseasonably warm and in October the hard green fruits were still exactly that  — hard and green, with no sign of the plump richness, the delicate streaks of v…