A GREAT FISH STEW — whether the saffron-tinged bouillabaisse of Provence, the tomatoey cacciucco of Tuscany, the milky, potato-studded chowder of New England, or the garlicky cioppino of San Francisco — calls to mind the savory smell of seaweed, the briny taste of sea air, even the rhythmic lapping of waves. It’s a multisensory experience that transport…
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