Restaurants: Lunch at the Grand Bazaar in Tehran
By Kareh Moraba
THE WALK THROUGH TEHRAN’S bazaar to the restaurant Sharaf-ol-Eslami is paved with handmade copper-colored bricks that smell of earth after rain. Diamonds and rubies are displayed in store after store, and Mahmoud, the son of a beggar, always stands nearby to talk endlessly about trains as he sips tea he gets free at Haj Kazem’s tiny corner café. As you …