Nishi
232 Eighth Avenue, between 21st and 22nd Streets
New York City
tel 646.518.1919
open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday, 5:30 p.m. to 11 p.m.
a meal for two is about $110 per person, before drinks
FROM THE TIME I first met David Chang, about a dozen years ago, he has looked exhausted, and stressed. Back then he was trying to make a go of …