Rich, Sweet Red Tomatoes

You Can’t Have Too Much Sun or Too Great a Variety

Slices of the variety Cosmonaut Volkov in late August (the tiny purple flowers are hyssop). Edward Behr

“IT’S PRETTY UNUSUAL FOR someone who didn’t grow up in a greenhouse to do this and not fail,” Dave Chapman said, standing in one of his two Dutch-designed glass greenhouses. The tomato vines that filled them rose to almost twice his height. The two gr…