Ricotta in the Monti Sicani of Sicily: the Delicate Cheese as It Used to be Made
By Harold McGee
GIOVANNI CACCIATORE WAS HEATING a pot of whey for ricotta near the remote town of Santo Stefano Quisquina in the Sicani Mountains, a twisting 90-kilometer drive south of Palermo. Morning sunlight came through a large, open doorway. Just outside it were 500 sheep, 50 goats, and a trail leading to mountain pastures that in April, when this photo was taken…