ON A LATE JULY MORNING, the sun was intensifying over Piazza Belvedere, the main square in the village of Milo on the eastern slope of Mount Etna. A group of what appeared to be Sicilian Girl Scouts milled about in the piazza, whose far edge afforded a view of the Etna foothills and, jutting into the sea like a finger, the port of Riposto, which for cen…
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