Why This Bottle, Really? Riesling, Magdalena Vineyard, Finger Lakes, Hermann J. Wiemer
By Meg Houston Maker
2014 Riesling, Magdalena Vineyard, Finger Lakes, Hermann J. Wiemer, New York, about $36.
Some grapes let you look straight through them into the place they’re grown. Riesling is the apotheosis of this. In warm Alsace or even the Rheingau, it’s friendly, smiling; in cool Austria or the Mosel, it’s steely and serene. Beneath these varied countenances lies …