Why This Bottle, Really? Schwarze Birne Schaumwein, Swabian Alb, Helmut Dolde
By Valerie Kathawala
Schwarze Birne Schaumwein (nonvintage), Swabian Alb, Helmut Dolde, Germany (ordered from the winery, €11; US importer SuperGlou, retail price around $25).
As we thrash and grapple with the meaning and purpose of regenerating soils, protecting biodiversity, and preserving threatened foodways, one man quietly acts. Deep in Germany’s southwest, the Swabian …