Why This Bottle, Really? Südtirol Lagrein Riserva, Nüsserhof

2009 Südtirol Lagrein Riserva, Nüsserhof (Heinrich Mayr), Italy, about $45 (US importer Louis/Dressner).

If I had to explain “structure” in wine to someone, I would have them taste this. Structure here is not merely the balance of tannin and acid, alcohol, and fruit. Instead it’s as though the wine arranges itself for you when you drink. If I had a criti…