Why This Bottle, Really? Pinot Noir, Taylor Ridge, Sonoma Coast, Bohème Wines

By Alan Goldfarb

2014 Pinot Noir, Taylor Ridge, Sonoma Coast, Bohème Wines, about $55.

In a good year on the rugged Sonoma Coast, Kurt Beitler makes about 1,600 cases of wine from leased vineyards that are windy, foggy, and have rocky, cracked, shallow soil with few nutrients — attributes that yield lower-alcohol, balanced wine. In a climate that can play havoc, he consi…