Zabaione

To the 16th-century Italian chef Bartolomeo Scappi, “zambaglione” was an egg yolk–wine mixture cooked over water to the consistency of “a thick broth” — no foam; it was made with Malvasia “or some other sweet white wine.” Marsala became the preferred wine only in the 20th century, before it fell out of fashion, probably because most Marsala is not very …