Cioppino

By Mitchell Davis and Laurent Gras

[Read Mitchell Davis and Laurent Gras's article "One Fish, Stew Fish."]

A San Francisco classic, cioppino was likely brought to the Bay Area by Italian immigrants in the late 19th century. These days, when at a good fishmonger you can buy just about anything from anywhere — as long as it lasts, that is, given the state of our oceans — you want to select …