Coq au Vin (Chicken in Red Wine)

Coq au vin, a variable dish, appears in much of France and under various names. In Alsace, it’s coq au riesling with cream and mushrooms; in Britanny it’s poulet au cidre with hard cider, cream, and sautéed apples; a Basque might add tomato. In the Berry, poulet en barbouille is on the fringe of the form; made with red wine and the chicken’s blood, it’s…