Crémets d’Anjou (Fresh Cream Cheeses)
The French region of Anjou is known for its market gardens and river fish, and yet three of the province’s most emblematic foods are full of fat — rillauds, beurre blanc, and crémets. The last are an airy dessert, originally made with the single ingredient of crème fraîche (ripened cream), whipped full of air and then, like a cheese, drained in a mold w…