Grillade des Mariniers du Rhône (Sliced Beef Stewed in Red Wine)

The Rhone River boatmen have disappeared, but they leave behind a reputation for certain dishes, including matelotes (red-wine-and-onion fish stews) and grillades, such as this one. André Besson, a retired chef who lives in Montreal, worked for two years at La Pyramide in Vienne, just south of Lyon. That was the restaurant of Fernand Point, the greatest…