Burgundy’s jambon à la crème and jambon au Chablis are closely allied to its saupiquet. Each consists of slices of ham, fried (originally in lard) and then cooked gently in wine. There are no firm boundaries between these dishes: à la crème contains more cream, au Chablis relies more on wine, and saupiquet calls for vinegar. (This saupiquet has diverged…
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