Lapin à la Bourguignonne (Rabbit in Red Wine)

By James MacGuire

In French cooking, when you think of rabbit in red wine, what springs to mind is the civet with its last-minute enrichment with blood and, often, the puréed liver. Before the wine goes in, civet recipes often call for flaming the pieces of meat with brandy, which in James’s view is overkill because the rabbit is too delicate. And in North America, unles…