Nobody Likes Prunes

Which Is Not Really True

I ONCE HAD THE IDEA that anyone who really loves to eat must love prunes with their rich, deep, fruity, caramelish taste that runs nearly to sweet-and-sour. Some people, I now accept, are put off; texture is part of it. Yet prunes are wonderful in prune danish, in pies and tarts, in bars, in hamantashen, with chocolate, in la coupetado (bread pudding). One of the best simple desserts is prunes soaked in Armagnac and served with cream or ice cream. The savory dishes excel equally. Braised oxtail with prunes, which I once made for a holiday dinner, was a standout. There are porc aux pruneaux (pork with prunes), lapin aux pruneaux (rabbit with prunes), pruneaux à l’aigre-doux (sweet-and-sour prunes) to go with pâte de campagne, and prunes in red wine for Roquefort. The last also go with roast pork, duck, and goose.