Pigeonneaux aux Olives (Squabs with Olives)

The flavor of this dish, associated with the South of France, depends heavily on the olives, so be sure to taste before you buy. For green olives, you can substitute black, though not a dry and withered kind. Rather than aiming at well-done meat, as you would with most braises, cook squabs to only about medium so they aren’t dry. The same method is ofte…