Asperges, Sauce Maltaise (Asparagus with Blood-Orange Hollandaise)

The beginning of asparagus season happily overlaps the end of citrus season. Traditionally, the sole purpose of sauce maltaise — hollandaise with fresh blood-orange juice — is to accompany asparagus, and there’s nothing better. (It also goes well with poached or grilled nonoily fish.) Even more than regular hollandaise, sauce maltaise proves the lightne…