[Read the article “A Gratin Dish.”]
A big hard head of cabbage is especially winter food, but other kinds are in season through the year, and they’re sweeter as a rule. In spring, depending where you are, you might be lucky and find small new green cabbages. Savoy cabbage is very good in this gratin — sweeter, more delicate, and quicker cooking than the hard heads, although it doesn’t keep as well. Napa cabbage, which is more accurately Chinese, is good too. The Gruyère complements cabbage, but you may have another firm or hard cheese that you like. This recipe is drawn partly from Provence, whose many gratins are often called tians after the dish they’re made in. Eggs appear in many tians and make them more of a meal.