[Read the article "Blowing Things Up with Eggs."]
The best clafoutis, the cherry-filled flan from the French region of Limousin, is powerfully, directly inflated by the oven’s heat, which turns it partly gold and brown. I once had, however, a clafoutis baked in a crust and served cool; the insulating effect of the crust ensured a heavy, gummy custard tas…