Poulet au Vin Jaune et aux Morilles (Chicken with Cream, Morels, and Vin Jaune)

Chicken, cream, morels, and vin jaune form one of the great flavor combinations. The dish comes from the Jura Mountains in the Franche-Comté region of eastern France, and yet it doesn’t appear in Pierre Dupin’s classic franc-comtois cookbook of 1927, Les Secrets de la Cuisine Comtoise, which offers only a recipe for morels in cream sauce, containing “th…